Anyone who has tried to hang washing in Karori during a northerly, or eat outside in Island Bay when the southerly arrives, knows that wind is the defining feature of a Wellington section. Gardens on exposed ridges in Brooklyn, Khandallah or the hills above the Hutt Valley can be shredded in a single storm. Shelter is not a luxury here; it decides what will grow, how warm the house feels and whether the outdoor area gets used at all.
The two main tools are living shelter, usually a hedge or a row of trees, and built shelter, usually a fence or screen. Each has strengths, and on many sections the answer is a combination. Both also raise questions with neighbours and the council, which are worth thinking through before anything goes in.
How wind behaves around barriers
A solid barrier is not always the best barrier. When wind hits a close-boarded fence, it lifts over the top and drops down on the lee side, creating turbulence and eddies a short distance behind. Plants a metre or two behind a solid fence can be battered more than those further away. A permeable barrier, roughly 40 to 60 percent solid, slows the wind rather than deflecting it, producing a calmer zone that extends further downwind.
As a general guide, a permeable shelterbelt reduces wind noticeably for a distance of around five to ten times its height. A two-metre hedge can therefore calm an area 10 to 20 metres deep, which on a typical urban section covers most of the back yard.
Wellington’s terrain complicates this. Wind funnels up gullies and accelerates over ridges, and the direction that causes problems on one street may be completely different a few hundred metres away. Spending a few windy days noting where gusts come from, and where leaves pile up, is time well spent.
Choosing plants for living shelter
Good shelter species for Wellington tolerate salt, cope with clay or thin rocky soils and recover quickly from wind damage. Natives perform well:
- Karo (Pittosporum crassifolium) handles coastal salt and forms a dense screen quickly.
- Taupata (Coprosma repens) is extremely tough on exposed sites, though it can spread by seed.
- Ngaio grows fast and tolerates wind, though it is short-lived and toxic to stock.
- Harakeke (flax) provides quick low shelter and filters wind well while taller plants establish.
- Olearia species, including akiraho, make reliable hedges on windy hillsides.
Plant small. Young plants grown in exposed conditions develop stronger root systems than large grades transplanted from sheltered nurseries. In the first year or two, temporary windcloth on stakes protects them while they establish. Autumn planting gives roots time to grow over winter before the dry, windy spring.
Living shelter takes time, typically three to six years to become effective, and it needs regular trimming. A hedge left to grow tall can shade a neighbour, drop leaves into their gutters and eventually become a bigger issue than the wind it was meant to stop.
When a fence makes more sense
Fences provide instant shelter and take up much less ground than a hedge, which matters on small sections. Slatted or louvred designs with gaps of 15 to 25 millimetres between boards give a more permeable barrier than close-boarding and stand up better to wind loading. Posts need to be set deep, often 900 millimetres or more on exposed sites, and concreted.
Because Wellington wind loads are high, fence design is not something to improvise. Experienced Wellington fencing contractors will consider post spacing, timber sizes and footings suited to the site’s exposure and slope. A fence combined with a low planting strip on the windward side often gives the best result: immediate shelter from the fence, with plants softening its look and taking some of the force over time.
Neighbours, boundaries and council rules
Most boundary disputes over shelter involve height and shade. Fences above certain heights usually need building consent, and district plans may set height limits near boundaries or along street frontages. Wellington City Council and the Hutt councils each have their own rules, so check before building anything tall.
The Fencing Act generally expects neighbours to share the cost of an adequate boundary fence, and sets out a notice process for proposing one. Hedges are treated differently and can become the subject of disputes if they grow tall enough to block sun or views. A short conversation before planting, and agreement on maximum height, avoids most of the trouble.
Costs vary widely. A basic paling fence might run at $150 to $250 per metre installed, with slatted hardwood screens costing considerably more. A shelter hedge planted from small grades can cost a fraction of that, though it takes years to catch up.
Frequently asked questions
Is a hedge or a fence better for Wellington wind? A hedge or slatted fence that lets some wind through usually gives a calmer and larger sheltered area than a solid fence, which can create turbulence on the lee side.
How tall can a boundary fence be without consent? It depends on the council and the location, so check the district plan and building rules before building anything above standard fence height.
What is the fastest-growing native shelter plant for Wellington? Karo, ngaio and taupata establish quickly on exposed sites, with harakeke useful as temporary low shelter while taller plants grow.