A native hedge is one of the most rewarding things you can plant on a New Zealand section. It gives privacy and shelter, feeds tūī and kererū, copes with local conditions once established, and avoids the weedy escapes that some exotic hedging plants are known for. Getting one from bare ground to a dense screen takes patience, but the steps are simple and the cost is modest if you start small.
Choosing the right species for the site
The best hedge plant is the one suited to your conditions, not the one that looked good at the garden centre. Think about exposure, soil, sun and the height you actually want.
- Coastal and windy: Karo, taupata (coprosma repens), ngaio and coastal flax handle salt and wind well.
- Sheltered and sunny: Kōhūhū and other pittosporums, griselinia (kāpuka) and mānuka make tidy hedges.
- Shady or damp: Some coprosmas, kawakawa and hangehange tolerate low light better than many alternatives.
- Low hedges: Hebes, smaller coprosmas and corokia work for borders under a metre.
Buy from reputable nurseries and, where possible, choose plants grown from local seed sources. Before buying, check that plants are free of pests and diseases. Myrtle rust affects mānuka, ramarama and other myrtle family plants, and the Ministry for Primary Industries has guidance on recognising and reporting it.
Preparing the ground
Preparation is where many hedges succeed or fail. Mark out the line with string and clear a strip about a metre wide, removing grass and perennial weeds completely. Kikuyu in particular will smother young plants if it is not dealt with.
Dig over the strip and mix in compost if the soil is poor. In heavy clay, consider raising the bed slightly to improve drainage. In sandy soils, organic matter helps hold moisture.
Planting time matters. Autumn and winter, roughly April to August, suit most of the North Island, giving roots time to establish before summer. In colder inland or southern areas, early spring may be safer to avoid frost damage.
Planting and spacing
Spacing depends on the species and how quickly you want cover. A common range is 50 to 80 centimetres apart in a single row. For a thicker, faster screen, plant a double staggered row with plants around 60 centimetres apart and rows about 40 centimetres apart.
- Water plants thoroughly in their pots before planting.
- Dig holes slightly wider than the root ball and at the same depth.
- Tease out circling roots gently.
- Backfill, firm the soil and water well.
- Mulch with 50 to 75 millimetres of bark or arborist chip, keeping it clear of stems.
Small plants in 1-litre or 2-litre pots usually establish faster than large grade plants, and they cost a fraction of the price. A hedge of small natives often overtakes one planted at larger sizes within a few seasons.
Protect young plants from the things most likely to set them back. Rabbits and hares can strip a new row overnight in rural and semi-rural areas, so cheap plastic sleeves or netting earn their keep. On exposed sites, a temporary windbreak of shade cloth on stakes for the first year reduces wind burn and lets the plants put energy into roots rather than survival. Label any mixed planting so you remember which species is which when it comes time to trim.
Budget roughly for the full length before you start. At typical nursery rates for small grade natives, a 20-metre double row might need around 60 to 70 plants, plus compost and mulch, and the cost varies with species and pot size.
Shaping and early care
Early pruning creates density. Trim the tips lightly in the first spring after planting to encourage side shoots. Resist the temptation to let the plants race upwards before they have thickened at the base.
Water deeply through the first two summers, especially in dry spells. Keep the strip weed-free and top up mulch annually. A light feed of slow-release fertiliser in spring helps, though many natives need little.
Once established, trim once or twice a year, usually in late spring and late summer. Shape the hedge slightly narrower at the top than at the base so light reaches the lower foliage. If the hedge is on a windy, exposed site, keeping it to a moderate height also reduces wind load, much as it does with larger trees, as discussed in this piece on preparing trees over the roofline for Northland storms.
Frequently asked questions
How fast will a native hedge grow? Pittosporums and griselinia can put on 30 to 60 centimetres a year in good conditions. Slower species like corokia might grow less than half that. Expect a useful screen in roughly three to five years.
Can I mix species in one hedge? Yes. Mixed hedges look more natural and support a wider range of wildlife. Choose species with similar growth rates and light needs so one does not dominate.
Do native hedges need fertiliser? Most need little. Good soil preparation and mulch usually provide enough, though a light spring feed can help on poor ground.